Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is a normal constituent of human skin, and is concentrated in the dermis and epidermis. It is one of the most widely used antioxidants for protecting the skin. Vitamin C can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and therefore decreases the melanin production. In addition, vitamin C is important to help protect the skin against UV-induced free radical damage that is related to skin aging. Unfortunately, pure vitamin C is extremely unstable in cosmetic formulas. It is easily oxidized when exposed to air or light. It will change color and lose its due activity within a short period of time. It is an unfriendly ingredient for formulations, even if it is an anhydrous formula. There is no way to escape the fate of oxidation. Furthermore, since vitamin C has 4 hydroxyl groups in its structure, it cannot directly penetrate the stratum corneum and be absorbed by the skin. A very high concentration is required to compensate for its low permeability, and it must be formulated in an extremely acidic environment in order to be absorbed and doing it’s job. Many people would experience skin irritation or allergic reactions because of this.
In order to obtain the numerous skin care benefits of vitamin C, most of the ingredients used in skin care products nowadays are modified vitamin C derivatives, which greatly enhance the stability of the formula and skin absorption rate, while eliminating irritation problems. Let’s take a look at some of the commonly used varieties in recent years:
1. Ascorbyl Glucoside
A water-soluble vitamin C derivative produced through biotransformation using the specific transglycosylation action of glycosyltransferase. It retains all the biological activities of vitamin C and is more stable than vitamin C. It contains glycoside bonds in its molecular structure and has good light resistance and heat resistance. It is not easy to decompose under long-term high-temperature heating conditions and is recognized as the most stable Vitamin C derivatives. The vitamin C glucoside that enters the cells is hydrolyzed by OL-glucosidase to form vitamin C and glucose. It can continuously supply vitamin C to the skin after application. It has the same reducing and antioxidant properties as pure vitamin C, but does not cause skin irritation problems.
Vitamin C glucoside is one of the popular whitening active ingredients. It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and reduces the formation of melanin, and also degrades already formed melanin, and reduces pigment deposition to whiten the skin and brighten skin tone. Many well-known brands compound it into cosmetic formulas to better exert its whitening effect.
Vitamin C glucoside can also promote the synthesis of collagen, accelerate the metabolism of skin tissue, prevent skin wrinkles, and increase skin elasticity. At the same time, vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant that can scavenge free radicals in the body and delay skin aging. Therefore, vitamin C glucoside has anti-aging functions. When added to cosmetics, it can remove wrinkles, rough and dry skin and other problems, making the skin look plump and translucent.
2. 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Also known as ethyl vitamin C, ethyl ascorbic acid, and VC ethyl ether, it is a derivative of vitamin C obtained through hydrocarbylation. Vitamin C ethyl ether is light-resistant, heat-resistant, acid-resistant, alkali-resistant, salt-resistant, and not easily oxidized by air. It is a chemically stable vitamin C derivative and is soluble in water, oil, and organic solvents such as methanol. Since vitamin C ethyl ether is an oil-water-soluble substance, it can be added to the oil or water phase of cosmetic formulas as needed. It can also be added at high or low temperatures, making it very convenient to use. The multi-solubility feature also makes it easier to penetrate the stratum corneum and enter the dermis to exert its biological effects, which is something that pure vitamin C does not have.
The skin care effect of Vitamin C Ethyl Ether is similar to that of pure Vitamin C. It also has the functions of whitening, anti-aging, anti-inflammation, and increasing collagen synthesis.
3. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C. It is heat and photostable and is easy to use in cosmetics. It has excellent transdermal absorption capacity and can be effectively converted into free vitamin C in the skin. It resists discoloration and degradation while retaining all of the biological activity of L-ascorbic acid.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate reduces melanin formation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and acts as an antioxidant. Formation of wrinkles is also reduced, skin whitening and radiance are improved, and skin tone is more even. Collagen production increases and the skin is protected from environmental damage. Its oil-soluble nature allows it to neutralize the types of free radicals that damage skin lipids (such as ceramides and cholesterol), which is its primary mode of action as an antioxidant. And water-soluble ascorbic acid helps neutralize other types of free radicals, preventing them from damaging the skin.
JennyStellaBeauty CollaBoost Regenerating Serum is formulated with Ascorbyl Glucoside.
